Austera Peak – SE Ridge

After our big day climbing Dorado Needle and Eldorado Peak, I was motivated to explore. Throughout our trip so far, I kept finding myself spellbound by Klawatti Col. This narrow gap between rock towers seemed mysterious and magical every time I saw it from afar – I knew I wanted to pass through it. Without any real information other than our map of the area, we decided to quest that direction and see the sights. Larissa and I climbed Austera Peak to the sub-summit on June 30, 2025.

Klawatti Peak as seen from the Inspiration Glacier, with Klawatti Col below the peak on the left.

Austera Peak is not a particularly exciting mountain to a climber – the rock is loose and the only technical climbing is 50 obnoxiously contrived feet on the summit tower. What it lacks as a climb is made up for with its qualities as a super-remote glacial trek. The approach from our camp involves traversing three glaciers, two major cols (one technical) and non-stop stunner views of what some consider the most beautiful area in the Cascades.

Downclimbing into Klawatti-Austera col. Photo: Larissa Ault
Working across the Klawatti Glacier toward Austera.
Climbing up to Austera. We ascended the Southwest Ridge (right skyline) and descended walking terrain to the highest snow on left.

Larissa led out in the morning, bringing us on a massive contour of the upper Inspiration Glacier to Klawatti Col. This was easy travel and went quickly, aside from occasional stops to simply soak in it all in. At Klawatti Col, we continued onto the McAllister Glacier. We had spent some quality time with the McAllister the day prior, but today we were on a completely different part of this massive flow of ice – so cool! A rising traverse brought us to Klawatti-Austera col which was more serious than I anticipated. We located an old rap anchor and did a rappel to gain the Klawatti Glacier. Yet another high traverse of the upper reaches of the Klawatti brought us to the summit block of Austera Peak. We chose to ascend the Southeast Ridge to the sub-summit, which was really just a short third class hike. We looked over at the true summit, but decided against trying to climb that pile of choss – later, I found out that almost nobody climbs the true summit. Instead, we found a comfortable spot to dry our socks, eat snacks, and absorb the views of the Klawatti icecap. Occasionally we saw serac avalanches pour out of the icefalls below. This is one of the best mountain vistas I’ve ever seen!

Spellbinding views of the McAllister Glacier and its icefalls tumbling into the basin below. Eldorado Peak is at left, and Dorado Needle is near the center of the skyline.
Switching back to glacier mode on descent from Austera. Photo: LA
Klawatti Peak with its glacier flowing off into the abyss. What a cool mountain, too bad it’s such terrible rock! Forbidden Peak is in the left background. Austera-Klawatti col is to the right.

After an extended break, we packed up and descended third class terrain straight down to regain the Klawatti Glacier, reversing our morning’s approach from there. On the return, we belayed a short pitch of steep 5.6 to regain Klawatti-Austera col. This was a very rewarding and relaxed day – exactly what I wanted. If you are spending a few days in the area, I highly recommend checking out Austera.

Traversing the McAllister back toward Klawatti col. The Tepeh Towers are at center, with Dorado Needle out right. Photo: LA
I used to think glacier walking was so lame. But look at this! I love this stuff. Eldorado Peak watches from high above as we traverse the Inspiration Glacier back to camp. Photo: Larissa
Returning to our private island for the evening.
We caught some spectacular views of Johannesberg Mountain on our descent of the Eldorado Glacier the next day. Wild memories of the NE Rib came flooding back.

Gear Notes

In addition to your glacier kit, bring a single rack to 1″ for Klawatti-Austera col.

Strategy Notes

Klawatti Peak would be an easy add-on if you’re going for Austera.

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