Gibraltar Wall (III WI4)

This was my first big ice route, and Justin did all the leading since I had just started climbing ice. I remember a fun but cold day out on this awesome 170m wall of ice.  The most interesting part was when we discovered that the ice had melted out on the last pitch, forcing Justin to climb 20 meters of slab in crampons with no protection.

Beta:  Depending on conditions and your chosen line, expect difficulties ranging from WI3+ to WI5.  The far right hand side seems to consistently be the easiest part of the wall, judging from the two trips I have made to this awesome spot.  The approach is extremely easy (you can clearly see the wall from the road).  I recommend putting your crampons on at the car and using caution on the ice slope approach – I know of at least one serious accident when a climber was almost to the base of the route when she slipped and slid down the slope, breaking her leg when her crampon bit into the ice at the wrong moment.

GB 2
Looking up pitch two.  Photo: Nick Sweeney


Gear Notes:

Ice screws and two 60m ropes.  There are two bolted anchors, but on this ascent one of them was buried under two feet of ice.  Bring enough screws for leading and belays.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s