Forbidden Peak – Northwest Face (IV 5.8)

Kyle and I climbed the Northwest Face of Forbidden Peak in 17 hours car to car on July 25th, 2020.  It was an incredible day of distinctively Cascadian climbing in one of the most gorgeous zones in the range.  The superlatives will be running wild in this trip report.

5 thoughts on “Forbidden Peak – Northwest Face (IV 5.8)

  1. Thanks for sharing. Brought back lots of fine memories. Did the route on an early August Friday in 1983 and we were the only souls on the mountain. Used the north shoulder of Torment approach, which I would not brag up as some rockfall off Torment almost took us out. Thanks and stay safe!


    1. That’s so interesting about using the N shoulder of Torment to approach! We wondered about that option. Looks like glacial retreat has made that approach even more dangerous these days. There is not a safe way to approach this route in my opinion… even our approach, via sharkfin col, was loaded with objective danger from snow mushrooms and glacial remnants on the walls above the Boston Glacier. That said, once the gauntlet of the approach has been run, this is a fantastic route! Thanks for sharing that.


      1. If it wasn’t for the late afternoon barrage of rocks off Torment (one of maybe 30 carved a groove in the snow three feet away) I would recommend this approach. We failed a late in the day approach via Sharkfin once. Thought it was quick and easy and it was not, so went with Torment’s north shoulder. Bivy on rock out cropping on glacier, not realizing there were bivy sites on lower arete, which we had time to reach. Surprised at the amount of night time rockfall in this basin. Great memories, nonetheless. I just discovered your fine blog yesterday and I look forward to reading them all!


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