Flyboys (5.9)

Cory and I had a nice day playing around on Flyboys on May 13, 2023. We’d driven over and camped the night before, and by 6am the next day, we were starting the short hike to the base of the route.

Leading the traverse pitch low on the route. Photo: Cory Rekasie
Cory low on the route.

Cory was nice enough to let me lead every pitch of the route – what a treat! The climbing tends to be quite friendly, aside from a blind step left on the fourth pitch, which I felt was the clear crux of the route. Given the crowds that this route draws, consider adjusting your expectations and desires away from climbing fast and getting an Instagram-worthy time. Chill out, eat snacks, and chat with the people you are sharing the route with!

Heading up the chimney pitch – this very easily links with the next pitch, on which I only clipped one or two bolts. Photo: Cory
Cory on the final moves of the route. Pro-tip: If rappelling, clip the final belay anchor as a directional and belay from the rappel bolts, which allows you to pre-rig the first rappel before your second arrives.

Gear Notes

10 quickdraws, 6 alpine draws, 70m rope.

Strategy Notes

There’s a lot of debate over the preferred descent for this climb. I thought the rappels were straightforward and easy – they took us about 2 hours.

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