Kyle and I linked up to climb the Grand Teton via the Complete Exum Ridge on August 14th, 2023. Over the years, we have shared some intense and wonderful experiences in the mountains. From waterfall ice climbs, big alpine rock routes, to 6000m peaks – we work incredibly well together in the mountains! So when Kyle and his wife, Kate, were passing through Wyoming on a road trip, I had to take the opportunity to make the long drive over and experience a new mountain range with my most trusted partner.

The approach was friendly despite the elevation gain it requires – the trail is well-maintained, and even has steps in some of the steep sections. A fixed line brings you to the lower saddle, the traditional high camp used by parties climbing over multiple days. From here, we traversed the Black Dike at 12,000 feet to the approach ramp, bringing us to the base of the first pitch.

Once we roped up, we got caught behind a few teams which slowed our progress. When finding yourself in this situation, it’s good to adjust your expectations and not stress too much about the time you’re losing. However, if you find yourself holding up another, obviously faster team, it’s good style to let them pass. Regardless, we romped upward with Kyle letting me lead nearly every pitch. The clear money pitch of the route was pitch 5, the Black Face, with spectacular steepness and exposure for such a moderate grade. I must have clipped 5 or more pitons on this pitch – alpine sport climbing!

Above the Black Face, we had one more steep pitch before the climbing mellowed to low fifth class. Now in simulclimbing mode, we blasted six more pitches until unroping and scrambling to the summit of the Grand Teton. Miraculously, there wasn’t a breath of wind nor a cloud in the sky. Awesome! The descent of the Owen-Spalding is involved and sometimes confusing, but we got it done with persistence and helpful beta from some Exum guides that we passed near the top of Sargent’s Chimney.

Gear Notes

A 70m rope is nice for the long rappel on the descent. We carried a heavy rack with cams .3-3 and doubles of .4-1 along with a set of offset nuts. We used it all, but could have gotten away with a few less cams.

Strategy Notes

Start as early as you can stand to on this one! Crowds are guaranteed.