Deep in North Idaho, there’s a face that stands out prouder than the rest: The North Face of Lion’s Head. This intimidating wall is continuously steep and features Lion Tamer, a classic burl-fest of Inland Northwest climbing. I’ve wanted to climb it since I saw the face for the first time in 2017 and again in 2021 when I climbed the East Buttress. The central line on the North Face was first climbed in 1970 by John Roskelley and Bob Christiansen at IV 5.7 A3 with a ledge bivy in the middle. In 1991, John Kitel and Mark Pierce free climbed the route at III 5.10c. Avi and I decided to try the route in “house to house” style on August 27, 2023. After a brutal 3am wake up, we blasted the drive and approach to the base of the wall, where Avi started the first pitch at 9am.

The first pitch is considered the hardest of the route, a full on 55 meter 5.10c affair with some loose rock and suspect flakes. This isn’t the type of pitch that you can climb with physical strength alone – this kind of action requires a cool head, strategy, and a willingness to “go for it.” I gained additional appreciation for Avi’s skills as I pulled through the absolutely classic final sequence: an undercling traverse into a thrilling roof pull on hand jams to finish the pitch.

I took point on our second pitch – a friend told us that the left-hand variation on the middle pitches is high quality so we decided to check it out. After climbing straight up from the belay, I quested leftward on awesome flakes. Eventually, the cracks widened and protection got scarce. I mistakenly belayed too early on this pitch, but Avi made up for it by linking the remainder into a burly, dirty 5.10b pitch that brought us to an incredible ledge way up on the face. After thugging my way up that tough pitch on top rope, I sheepishly offered Avi the lead on the final 5.10 pitch of the route. I was glad that Avi accepted because this was the crux of the route for me! A desperate stemming section precedes a classic and insecure hand traverse out left with bad feet. I took the final pitch of mid fifth to the top of the route. Descent was via the South Face Slabs with two rappels, a quick bushwhack around the mountain and a fourth class scramble down the West Shoulder before we were talus hopping back to the trail.

Gear Notes

Doubles from tips to fists, single #4, offset nuts (including micros). Minimum 60m single rope.

Strategy Notes

The hike is less brushy than I recall from past trips – plan on 2 hours to the base of the North Face.