A recent high pressure system has made for amazing winter conditions in the Cascades. Mitchell and I had long talked about climbing the North Face of Mt Hood, and this window looked like the time! We climbed the North Face Left Gully on January 18, 2025.

I have a bit of history with Mt Hood, with ascents of Reid Glacier Headwall, Yocum Ridge, the first ascent of Cathedral Ramp, and the Eliot Glacier Headwall to my name. This peak is very steep for a volcano and offers unbeatable access to real “big mountain” terrain within spitting distance of a major metropolis. Hood is a spectacular mountain for climbers of all abilities and ambitions.

After a 3am start from Timberline Lodge in frigid temperatures, Mitchell and I spent several dark hours circumnavigating half of the mountain. When we finally reached the North Side, we traversed in to the North Face on steep snow. We intended to drop onto the glacier to reach the base of the route, but it was hard to tell where we were on this steep and exposed terrain. Sugary snow conditions made movement insecure, with ice axes feeling rather useless. We kept traversing in an attempt to find a safer route and avoid any scary downclimbing. Eventually we reached the left gully just above the first pitch. We considered back tracking to find a way onto the glacier, but that seemed like a lot of work and risk to add only one pitch of climbing. Instead, we scrambled upward on steep neve alternating with sugary snow, moving unroped and feeling warm for the first time of the day.

The steep snow climbing went quickly and brought us to a fun WI2 step of snice (snow-ice) which we soloed. In these conditions, I’m not sure that it would be possible to meaningfully protect it anyway. Above the step, we continued scrambling on moderately steep snow, weaving between rocks to take the line of least resistance. We took turns breaking trail, eventually joining the final part of Cooper Spur to the summit. Shockingly, we spent 20 minutes on the summit without a soul in sight which is a rarity on this busy mountain. Score!

Mtichell was psyched to stand on to the summit of Mount Hood for his first time ever! I’ve been there before but it’s a special treat to stand atop a glaciated peak on a sunny day so I was just as stoked. After some snacks, we descended via the Old Chute and arrived at the car 11 hours after we began. It was a bit of a bummer to miss the crux pitch of the route (which is why we walked all the way over there!) but we still had a great day of constant movement in steep alpine terrain. I will definitely go back to climb the Right Gully someday, hopefully with better ice conditions.

Gear Notes

We carried a skinny single rope and a rack but never used it. For parties heading to climb the North Face of Hood (either the left or right gully), I recommend 6-8 ice screws, a picket or two, and a set of nuts for good luck. Ultimately, teams should be capable and willing to solo large parts of this climb.

Strategy Notes

Our method of starting at Timberline saved the trouble of arranging a car shuttle, but creates a pretty contrived day given that you have to walk halfway around the mountain to climb the steepest aspect of the peak. My ankles took a beating with all the icy sidehilling.